The Tenterfield Wandering

One Last Sojourn

With an interstate moving date fast approaching, I wanted to squeeze in a final overnight trip in the Northern Rivers area of NSW before we, Sally and our two dogs, packed up our lives for a fresh start in Hobart, Tasmania. 

I’d had a couple of routes planned – commencing at our house (‘cause who doesn’t relish the prospect of starting and finishing a route from your doorstep?) that were a collective of past routes I’d ridden with friends, the best of if you like… Though the constant rain from strong, persistent, La Niña season meant the rainforests were uninviting – muggy, damp and muddy. A route may still have been possible, but it wouldn’t be “fun” or something to look back on with fond memories.

Looking West

Following a short period of research from friends’ past rides on Strava, using Strava heatmaps, Ride with GPS and HipCamp – I hastily put together a route starting and finishing in Tenterfield, planning to leave the next day. 

The area surrounding Tenterfield had been on the radar since Gravel ‘n’ Granite had been announced, though the inaugural event had been postponed due to the pandemic, the seed was planted (through some inviting photos posted by the event organisers) – wide open landscapes on apparent desolate back roads, perfect for a getaway.

On the Range

Tenterfield is an historic town located in jukembal country on the northern end of the Northern Tablelands. Due to its elevation and geography it’s less susceptible to intense, prolonged periods of rain such as those around the lower lying areas of the northern rivers. 

I’d left my car at a friends house, promising to return the next day and made my way through town heading south. Tenterfield is a relatively small rural town so it’s not long before you’re riding on quiet country back roads, similar to those cleverly advertised by the Gravel ‘n’ Granite team. 

After an hour or so of fairly steady riding, the route took me to the northern border of Washpool National Park – a vast area of native forest that connects to Gibraltar and Nymboida National Parks. Like much of the surrounding bush, Washpool was severely affected by the 2019/20 bushfires, much of the forest flora is regenerating though the scars from the fires are still clearly visible. 

The first day of this trip largely follows gravel roads through Washpool NP on the eastern side on the New England highway. This area is remote, after leaving the outskirts of Tenterfield, you never see anyone else until reaching Deepwater some 70km away. 

After leaving Washpool NP the route passes open pasture-land on dreamy gravel tracks before reaching Deepwater itself. 

Deepwater, located on the New England highway, is an “interesting” old town. Not uncommon in rural Australia, these old towns would have been stopping points in the days of horse drawn carriage. Historic buildings (like the theatre pictured) allude to a time of grandeur long gone. 

Following a brief stop for lunch at the Deepwater servo the final push to my camp for the night was a largely gentle 30km to my pre-booked HipCamp site on a large farm near Reddestone. There are several HipCamp options in this area.

The Return Trip

Well rested and packed up after breakfast, the time to head back home had arrived. Leaving early, the route initially backtracks on the way in the previous day.

Emmaville is quickly reached. A small town of similar stature to that of Deepwater, there’s a small general store/café that serves up a mean bacon & egg roll, perfect before settling in for a solid day in the saddle. 

A short run on tarmac leads to the next junction where the route heads up to Torrington. The area around Torrington is more open than Washpool, thought not cleared for agriculture. Large granite Tors scatter the landscape, perfectly rounded and shaped by a lifetime exposed to the elements, a reminder of the punishing winds that occur in these parts. 

Towns, like Torrington, were developed during mineral exploration years. The wealth that may have been present then is long gone, with towns like this now being attractive to people living “off the radar”. Thought passing through these towns it’s easy to ponder what life may have been like back then…

Back to the Valley, Don’t Get Lost!

After Torrington, the route steadily descends passing settlements then into a long valley where the country is more agricultural than native bush. I stopped briefly at Mole River to soak my feet, though made the mistake of not filling my water bladder, thinking Tenterfield is now only one climb away. 

Being overly confident (“…up here, to the right…”) I turned the routing off on my computer. Though while heading up the road, music on, I missed the turn off – the short way to Tenterfield… By the time I realised, I figured it’d be best to keep heading the way I was and ride the last part along the Bruxner highway. 

Note – the GPS file follows my intended route (don’t turn off your GPS). 

After not too long it was also evident that I had no water left in my bladder. While the riding was easy the headwind was steady which not only added to the fatigue, but made my mouth dryer than the Gobi. At one point I considered knocking on the door of an apparently abandoned house to ask for water…

Savior Arise 

Following what seemed like an eternity without water, the Sunnyside Community Hall came into view, sticking out light a beacon of light in a stormy sea. Out bush, water can nearly be guaranteed at community halls, schools or fire stations. Sunnyside Hall came up with the goods – nice clean, sweet water. Premium quality H₂o.

From Sunnyside it was an uneventful, though windy, push back to Tenterfield. Glad to get back to civilization, hot chops and a cool drink were in order.

Au revoir New South Wales

This trip had been fun, though at times challenging. Definitely a pleasant way to end my time in northern NSW where I’d discovered a passion for cycling and rekindled my love for an adventure through bikepacking. 

I’m sure Tasmania will provide fuel for more to come.